My Trek to everest Base camp. Part 9.

What does it feel like to have the tallest mountain in the world looking over your shoulder as you try to finish breakfast? Unreal, Unnerving. Exhilarating.

We had woken up on Day 6 to clear skies and the rising sun was throwing his rays on Everest. Everest seemed closer, larger than ever. Towering over us, in her full glory. We felt small in her company, but privileged to see her so close. There were her friends as well, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Pumori. Thamserku and Kangtega were far away now. Does it really get better than this? I wondered. If there was a place where heaven meets the earth, this must be it.

The monastery at Tengboche added to the spiritual feel of this little place. Our entire journey had been marked with Buddhist Chortens and Mani Stones and Gompas. The Gompa at Tengboche was supposedly the largest in the region. It was amazing to me in erstwhile Hindu Kingdom Nepal, the Himalayan mountains were almost exclusively Buddhist. Maybe centuries of trade with Tibet over the mountains had cemented this bond? Maybe here in the mountains, the bonds with Tibet were stronger than those in the plains ? Maybe there had been several  migrations over the years ? The reasons are  not relevant, I guess.
 

As we were gaining elevation, the temperature was beginning to drop as well.  We were in the end of October and we were getting one day closer to winter each day. In the mountains, the temperature dropped by several notches as soon the sun went down or hid behind the clouds. And then there was the wind factor, which added to the unpredictability. So the temperature changed rapidly several times a day. Hence the need to layer up or down, constantly. From Namche onwards, night time temperatures were already below freezing. As the day wore on, the temperature rose slowly to hit its daily maximum- which at Tengboche would be in mid-single digits that day. So, it was a shivering morning.

The guide book had recommended an optional additional rest day at Tengboche, but Ajit did not want us to take it. We should save up the spare days for emergencies, he felt.

Our target for the day was Periche (4240). Periche was another mandatory acclimatization point, like Namche. The guide book said we would take 3.5-4 hours. There were two choices for the next overnight stop – Periche- where we were headed, or Dingboche. Balaram had decided that Periche was the better choice for us – it was the last outpost –and the only one after Namche – to have any medical facilities! With only 400 meters of ascent and hardly significant descent , today was going to be easy.

Balaram had urged us to leave early. There was a wind tunnel zone between Shomare and Periche -during the latter half of the trek for the day. These winds, which intensified in the late afternoon, affected  visibility and we would have to fight it and move forward. He wanted us to complete that portion as soon as possible. So we skipped visiting the monastery and got going, even before the sun was fully out.

We exited Tengboche by going down  into a dense treescape. There were a few hamlets in quick succession here. At one open patch, the dew drops on the grass had frozen to create a complete patch of shining white blades. It was like each blade was a large, individual snowflake, reflecting rays of the morning sun!

We continued our downward trajectory till we met  the galloping Imla Khoja. We crossed the bridge and started climbing upwards towards Pangboche.  
 

We were nearing the 4000 mark now and the vegetation started to change. Trees got replaced by small shrubs. Soon, these would vanish as well, till we were surrounded by a rugged, desert landscape. There would no longer be enough oxygen in the air for anything to sprout.

We crossed Pangboche, Shomare and reached Orsho. It was noon. We were barely two hours (at my pace) from Periche. We had also just crossed the 4000 mark. High Five!

Orsho had one solitary teahouse, situated at the end of wide cliff. Already above the treeline, Orsho was situated at the edge of the wind tunnel. The winds at these elevations were evil, because there was no vegetation to break their tempo. We could already see that the drafts were noisy and strong. Balaram was getting jittery. If it got worse, the next stretch would be impossible for me to negotiate, he feared. As we sat for a quick lunch, we heard the violent gale roar by outside.

After lunch, as we headed out, we saw that the terrain was mostly flat and the climb gentle. But the blast was against us.  Balaram requested me : I could double up couldn’t I? Just for this next stretch ? So we made it to Periche in good time ? Of course.

Ajit decided to trail me for a change. He gave me an IPod, I starting dancing as I was walking. Ta ta ta ra…one jig, one step, Ta ta ta ra..I should do this music thing more often, I remember thinking…
 

Then, She attacked me from behind, suddenly. The Coward. AMS. She wrapped Her Evil Fingers around my throat. Tight. I could not breathe. I was Gasping. Choking. Ta ta ta ra - the music played on. As I gagged. Trying to get in one morsel of air. Ajit came running. Balaram looked on, shocked. Then, Balaram made a decision : No further. Today. And tears began to flow freely. Mine. And Balaram’s.