Saturday, March 16, 2013

My trek to the Everest Base Camp - Part 14.


This was unique situation for us urbanites used to the mythical assumption that we control our life in its entirety.  We could be here for days, or weeks. Who knew? Things were completely out of our control.

As it turned out, we did land up spending several days stranded in Lukla. Where each day was just like the one before-and so the story of Lukla is best presented as snippets of memory. Things that stand out.

And the thing that I remember most is that being stranded was fun. I remember Lukla as a place where we laughed a lot. Seriously.

On our first evening in Lukla, we formed a gang – like a bunch of college freshmen coming together. From just the 2 of us, we swelled to being 5-There were Dirk and Cas, from Holland. Dirk – the talkative one. Cas the quiet one. Dirk was an insurance entrepreneur back home, but could have made an alternate career as a stand-up comedian. Then there was Mohammed – the mountain biking dude from South Africa, and a prolific father –he has fathered 5 children.(Mohammed, that one is for you) He owned a gas station back home – and looks like with every liter of petrol he gave a joke free. And there was Sheena- the hot Emirates airhostess from Mauritius. So hot, - with even the 30 layers of unwashed trekking gear- that she warmed the air around her as she walked. And managed to get her young guide Babu to develop a crush on her (sorry Sheena ;) ). And us – the Indian Mafia.

No topic was taboo. No opportunity for cracking up left unused. But given the situation, the topic that got us the most laughs was our funny crazy situation.

We laughed with skepticism at those trying to escape by Helicopter from Surkhe – about one hour trek from Lukla. (Seriously ? What a scam!) We smirked with disbelief at those that decided they would make the 6 day trek to Jiri. And there were a million jokes about Dirk’s guide – a young scamster trying exploit the situation and make a quick buck off Dirk and Cas. He was nicknamed  Smruf because of his blue cap. And Smurf – bless his soul – provided us much entertainment. And there were jokes about Babu’s protectiveness of Sheena. There were jokes about Ajit and my unique ability to get kicked out of tea houses every day (we stayed in a new tea house every night). And Ajit’s leg was pulled for picking up a fight with a tea house owner on ‘How to Flush a Toilet’ and getting kicked out in the bargain.

We met at Illy – the coffee shop – everyday, gorging down innumerable cups of coffee and countless plates of desert. Lukla had 2 ‘branded’ coffee shops  –Illy and Starbucks. Illy was strategically located. It has the best view of the runway while enjoying the warmth of being indoors.

On one of the days, through all the heavy clouds, an aircraft landed into Lukla. Suddenly there was much excitement  and everybody descended onto the airport to see this wonderful being. And then, just to torture our souls, the pilot decided to take the plane for a walk on the runway. And then parked it and left. The rest of the day was spent, looking at the wheels of the plane – was it moving? And the stationary plane became the object of many jokes.

And many hours were spent staring into the horizon, guessing if the clouds were thinner today than yesterday. And trying to collect information off the web(the coffee houses had wifi) on when the skies were expected to be clear. We were all graduating with degrees in climatology and aviation. And weather jokes and airplane jokes.

We would split up and go to different edges of Lukla and come back and share the gossip. What was the Latest News in town – who was leaving, who had left, who had left and come back. ‘The Helicopter from Surkhe’ stories were endless’. Was it real ? Was it a scam ? How did one get on to one ? It was all One Big Mystery. But Mysteries are great fodder for jokes.

Every day, there was the mandatory trip to the airline office. What were the airline officials saying ? Mohammed recently reminded me of a priceless quote from the Tara airline official “ www : 3 things you cannot control – work, woman, weather.’”

There was Time to Kill in Lukla, plenty of it. And Killing Time together was awesome indeed. We built some great relationships in Lukla in those few days- many of which have endured and strengthened over time. We have met Sheena since Lukla – she stopped over in Bangkok on one of her many flights across the globe. And Mohammed, we have visited and stayed with in South Africa. Dirk stays connected on Facebook and we hope to meet them all together some day.

Through all the fun and laughter, there was a little voice that kept growing louder in all our heads each day ‘How are you going to get out ?’.

No comments: