My trek to the Everest Base Camp -Part 12

My ascent had ended, but Ajit's had not. 

Here is the rest of the climb, in his own words.  

" It was really difficult to walk away from Shweta from Dughla although I was doing that almost the entire trek except at tea houses, lunches and our stay at hotels. Having made such an effort, it was quite painful to see her go back to Periche. She was very determined to complete it but I guess she made the right decision.

The climb from Dughla towards Lobuche was very steep. The reduction in oxygen in the air 5000m level could be felt. The rest stops became a bit more frequent. At the top of the climb were the graves of most climbers who did not make it back but bodies were recovered. It was a reminder to all trekkers who is the boss.

The walk from there on was a bit gentler. I doubled up and reached Lobuche for lunch. I took a longer break to rest my legs for the final push to Gorak Shep. The trek from Lobuche was along the glacier. For a long period of time, I did not realize I was walking on ice – probably formed centuries back. The fury of the glaciers could be seen by how rocks had been pulverized into rocks stones and dust. It looked like an ice river with dust and stones. Some areas where ice was exposed looked like emerald. This part of the trek had absolutely no vegetation. Finally, I could see Gorak Shep at a distance and it was at the end of a final descent. I was happy to have made it on good time. I was thinking of taking some rest that day and go to Kala Pathar the next day.

Gorak Shep was located in the banks of a glacier lake that existed centuries ago. Now, all one could see is a flat lake bed. I checked into the Himalayan Lodge and sat down with a full house of trekkers for a cup of tea. I got talking with a German who I had met at various parts of the trek. He was planning to go up the Kala Pathar that afternoon as the skies were clear. I thought, if I peak Kala Pathar that afternoon, I could start back to Periche early next morning and be with Shweta by afternoon as most of the distance was a descent. I packed my smaller back pack and a bottle of water and went on to the final destination – peaking Kala Pathar (5550 m).

It was not a tough climb only 400m from Gorak Shep that was at 5150 m. This was probably the most difficult part of the entire trek. I had to stop every 10 steps to catch my breath. I used to count 10 and stop. My German friend was a lot faster and he had disappeared far ahead. As I got higher, the view became more and more spectacular. The climb seemed never ending and put my determination to test. The final stretch had no path; it was almost like rock climbing. I collected all the energy I had and gave it a final push. I reached out for my water and by this time, it was completely frozen.

I almost collapsed on top but when I turned around, what I saw was unreal. It was worth every bit of effort put in. I was at 5550 m above sea level and I was looking a three beauties that where 3000 m (3 km!) above me! The sun was on the way down and I could see clouds flowing in through the gaps between the mountains. The views in all direction were spectacular – I did not know where to look. One by one, the sun rays kissed the top of the tall mountains and they disappeared for a cool night’s rest. Only two remained – Sagarmata and Nuptse. They seem to be on fire – I did not know whether to take photos or just sit there and look at them. Then the last ray from the sun kissed Sagarmata good night. One last look and I started to descend. How I wished Shweta was with me to see this.

I did not realize what was ahead. The moment the sun goes behind the mountains, the light disappears in a hurry and so does the temperature. One thing I had forgotten to pack was a torch light! Very soon, I could not see where I was going. While climbing, one has a bit more control but downhill, gravity sometimes takes over. I do not remember the number of times I tripped. I started to get scared as most of the trekkers had zoomed past me. I had started making plans of spending the night behind a rock and survive till next morning. I thought I should scream to get some help. Then god intervened. A group of Scottish trekkers with headlamps were coming down. I requested them if they could slow down a bit and make me walk in the middle. They obliged. My heart rate came down and I felt safe.

That night, I had head ache but I knew I would be going downhill from now on. I got up early and wanted to get back to Shweta as soon as I could. I sat for a cup of porridge and I saw something I could not imagine – notice for the highest marathon in the world – Gorak Shep to Namche Bazar and back!!! And this has been going on for a while. The number of entries was limited and there are people who completed it as well. I thought probably in my next life if I am born a Sherpa.

I know now why people make this journey. It is one of the most unreal experiences I have had in my life. It was worth the effort, time, preparation, money, ….I was not sure whether I would be back in Gorek Shep again but bid good bye to a special experience.

As Shweta says, I had only one thing in my mind from there on – reach Periche as fast as I could. Down hill, next day - Day 11,  was not easy but made it 5 hours. Yes, I survived to tell the story."